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24Dec/080

Micro Ace 485 Series “あいづ” 6-Car Decoder Install

I found this for sale on eBay and, although it's JR East, I decided I could do with another 6-Car set.



Being my first Micro Ace product, I was extremely impressed with the level of detail. I was also extremely impressed with the electronics on the inside and the way everything just snaps together... of course, this is the same with the greater majority of Japanese model railway products... but this 6-Car set seemed much easier to pull apart.

Once apart, it was obvious that the decoder install was going to be very easy... The motor contacts could easily be separated and the power rails were made of copper... solderable! After the copper wire was on.. the wire was lead back up alongside the copper rails to the decoder... wires were also soldered onto the rails to provide power. Finally, the decoder was installed.

485 Series decoder installed

Right... lighting... as per any large consist... there is usually a considerable length to the end cars for directional lighting... this usually means that people should install separate decoders in the end cars (high price!) or run wires throughout the cars (ugly!)... so instead, I decided to convert the AC current to DC and force the lights to be in specific directions...

But you'll see that in my next post!

27Nov/087

DCC Booster Complete

Ladies and Gentlemen,
I am proud to finally announce that the Booster has been completed and tested.

Booster completed

Booster rear

The final design incorporates the following features:

  • Short Circuit Protection with a ~6sec timeout when short detected.
  • Two segments per booster rated at 2-3Amp each.
    • These can be combined for a total output of ~5Amp.
  • Status LEDs to indicate power output on each segment and also overload/short detection on each segment.
  • Second Serial Port (DB9) on the rear panel to allow data connection to another booster.

A typical setup of the Booster would be as follows:

boosterdiagram.PNG

The Booster shown above was built in a readily-available Project Box and the next one built will probably not use the same model. I'll be going to the store on the weekend to see exactly what is available as the box used is a little larger than what is really required. Either way, if you still wanted one of these, now is the time to contact me.

28Oct/080

Final PCB Board Complete!

Well, Silver Circuits manufactured and delivered my PCB much much quicker than expected and I'm not complaining!

Circuit board

And, last night, after a rush of construction... I couldn't get the board to work... The 'trip' sensors were permanently active! After a 30 minute stare at the circuit design today I'd realised I'd viewed an older circuit schematic when designing the PCB and had put the inputs to the LM339 the wrong way around!
After a quick test to correct this I had the booster operational.

Circuit board

Unfortunately this now means that all boards in this initial run are defective, but I have devised a way to correct the issue without too much hacking. A small veroboard piggy-backed on has allowed me to correct the inputs to the IC.

Circuit board constructed and operational

I was very much relieved once it was all operational. I now need to get the final components (you can see a dodgy-hack of resistors wired on) and the heatsinks in place. Then I'll need to find a neater box to mount it all in and all should be set to go.

21Oct/082

PCB Design Complete

Well, after a long fight of finding appropriate software and then design I've finally sent off the final (if not entirely messy) design to the manufacturers...

Sure, it's not as small as I would have liked... but it's all set in stone now. I should see 8pcs on my doorstep in around a fortnight and then I can finally produce a finished product.
I can't wait actually... Last weekend I tested the final prototype on my own layout... which really only allows for around 3 trains running (one on a branch, one stuck in a siding and one on the main) and my battery ran out on the laptop before I had a chance to fully test it all out... either way, the quick test ran perfectly on all accounts:

I also purchased two DCC Accessory Decoders from eBay. I coded those in to trainControl (you'll see a few little squares above the console messages and below the train throttles) and they work great. Unfortunately they cannot be wired directly to the Kato UniTrack points (you'll need to wire a few relays in between) but I'm told work well on the Peco points. I didn't get to test them at the time.

The DCC Accessory Decoders did require me to do a bit of fine tuning on the Booster circuit though; it turns out they suck quite a bit of current on power-up to charge their little capacitors. This meant that the initial current draw on the booster was exceeding the trip circuit and the whole system would not power on.
After a little help the 1K2 resistor providing the op-amp comparison voltage was incremented to a 1K4 and everything worked fine.
This made me realise that the circuit will have different requirements for different layouts and so the final design will now incorporate a trimpot (initially set to 1K4) that can be user adjustable [but WILL void warranty] for 'expert users' to adjust.
Anyway... the work continues... everything is now set. I'm quite proud of the entire system and I can't wait to see the final circuit boards!
UPDATE: The boards are already done and on their way (priority) to me... thanks to Silver Circuits!

12Oct/080

DCC Booster Prototype Mark II

Ok, hot off the development floor is the Booster Prototype 2.

shorted.jpg

This now includes short-circuit protection! The final design will have 2 outputs (for two separate segments of track) at 3 Amp each (depending on power supply capabilities.) There are also now 4 status LEDs (Supply Power, Data, Overload, Track Power/Data)... More to come as I finalise the circuit board design.

10Oct/085

Eizan Dentetsu (叡山電鉄) Kirara 900 Decoder Install

I'd bought both the Maple Red and Maple Orange versions of this EMU back in 2006 when I first went to Japan and have always loved the quality and performance.

kirara1.JPG

Since the latest trend has been to DCC all my gear, I had decided that what better candidate next than to do one of these up. It was all quite simple too. The 'power rails' run down each side (internally) of the chassis and after isolating these from the engine I soldered the decoder in.

kirara2.jpg

Firstly I took the thing to bits... I love Kato and their use of clips... everything snaps apart, but you really need to be careful! I nearly broke one clip underneath as you have to squeeze them with a fair bit of force.

kirara3.jpg

After disembowing the engine I soldered it directly to the Decoder as I could easily put it back without having to worry about where the wires ran.

kirara4.jpg

Putting it back in was easy and the next step was to wire up the main power to the copper rails.

kirara6.jpg

There's a pair of LEDs (Red/Orange) at either end and they're wired up in parallel where one is reversed to allow them to switch between reverse/forward marker lights. This of course, wont work with DCC as you now have one common (single polarity) wire and then two rev/fwd wires... so I ripped one LED out of the board, flipped it around and then had my common.

I then used some very fine-gauge 'winding wire' (used for transformers/magnets) to connect the LEDs up (there was already a resistor in the circuit) since the thicker decoder wiring wouldn't fit under the light shield. To get the lights in the rear trailer working I ran this wire all the way between the trailers and to the other board, resoldering it in the same way.

kirara7.jpg

I also ran an extra two wires from the 'power rails' in the trailer to the rails in the motor car. Therefore ALL 4 bogies were wired for power pickup and the thing ran like a dream (initially it was a bit sloppy with only the 2 power car bogies picking up the power.)

kirara8.jpg

After programming it to use address 12, it was set to go. Next is to do my Maple Orange. ...actually, I'll get back to the programming first... I want to have my app able to at least set the addresses on decoders.

2Oct/080

trainControl evolves…

After a few more days of work the trainControl application has evolved further:

textual.png

Notable features:

  • Loading and saving of trains/connection config
  • Resizable
  • Add/Delete trains via interface
  • Connect/Disconnect on the fly

Still more to go... but very functional now... Download the source here. Of course, be warned! ... The source is constantly being updated by me and may DESTROY your computer. I've also considered the next challenge on this project... Handheld control via a GamePark GP2x.

30Sep/080

trainControl v0.1 created!

After 3 days of coding/learning/coding-again I managed to whip together a fairly usable *nix console application to control the DCC System.

tc.png

It is a client for the srcpd service mentioned previously and can control any number of trains.
There's still a fair bit of work to do on it... dynamically resizing windows, mouse input, etc... but I thought I'd post to show some progress.
If anyone is interested the source is here and can be compiled with gcc -o tc main.c -lncurses -lform -lpanel

...work continues...

28Sep/080

Controlling the Booster from Linux

After losing the source code to my DCC Throttle application I decided it was time to get the whole system controlled from Linux (or, in my case, Debian.) I'd known that the DDW Server I'd been using was based off srcpd and that they were more-or-less compatible.

After a lot of tinkering (making sure libraries/compilers/etc... were installed) I finally got srcpd compiled and running.
There is a nice web-app to create the required configuration file which is then thrown in /usr/local/etc/ or can also sit in the same directory as long as you specify it.

It seems that you need to make sure that the 'NRMA/DCC Translation Table' is set to '1'. I have a copy of my configuration file here.
Right, now that the server was running I grabbed Telnet and connected to localhost:4303. I attempted to use the same set of commands as I had with DCCThrottle but to no avail... it turns out the version of srcpd I had installed was based on the 0.8.3 srcp specification... much had changed.
Instead of reading up on what I should be doing differently I connected up dtcltiny 0.8.2.

dtcltiny.png

After a lot of tinkering with compilation/libraries/etc... I finally got it installed. On debian make sure you have qt3-apps-dev and libqt3-compat-headers installed... do this with apt-get. Anyway... I'd done all this on a spare Thinkpad 600E I had lying around (PII 266mhz 256mb RAM) and I'd had a few issues with lag once it was up. I'd turn the headlights off on the control panel and my Twilight Express locomotive would then go dark around 1.5 seconds later. After turning off nearly all debug output I had a relatively stable system... but it does need a lot more investigation.

The next trick will be to investigate building a client on the console... I don't need fancy Xorg to get a gui and an ncurses console app should do. I saw rcsh and rcman and the rest, but python isn't my friend... although it'd be a nice opportunity to learn.

Anyway... all of this was a great learning experience... and I was quite impressed that my old notebook handled Debian and got the locos moving.

30Jul/080

EF81 (Twilight Express) Marker Lights

Well, after a successful Decoder + Headlight install I thought I'd attempt to get the reverse marker lights going as well. I'd been told on the JNS forums that these lights are used very rarely in Japan and that explained why the model manufacturers (in this case Tomix) didn't bother to put lights behind them. Despite this there is a 'tube' of clear, but red, plastic behind the marker lights and this means that I would only have to get an LED lined up behind it to get them to work.

So, I went down to the local electronics store and looked for the smallest LEDs I could find...

twilightmarker.JPG

... and I tell you what, they're tiny... I used the 'helping hands' aligator clips to get the soldering done and initially attempted to wire in one LED behind the lights.

The next issue was wiring... I first used thin insulated wire I'd stolen out of a broken toy shotgun (with laser sight)... and this was OK, but there was starting to be too much piling up on top of the chassis and causing headaches when trying to put the shell back on.

Then I found 'winding wire' for building electromagnets and transformers and this stuff did the trick perfectly! This worked OK, but I could only ever get the brightness I wanted behind one of the lights. Since I wanted to be even I chose to put two lights in there.

twilightmarker2.jpg.png

After a little electrical tape for insulation and some blu-tac for positioning I had what I found to be success :)
There's a few issues... like the lights moving when you remove/replace the shell... but once it's all together they look great...

twilight3.JPG

...the light seen on coming through underneath isn't really visible in normal conditions... my camera just decided to extend the exposure. Anyway, one end done... the other is still to do.