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Hello Z-Scale!

I can't see this ending well (nothing went well for the previous coffee-table layout), but let's give it a go anyway! I was randomly browsing eBay and saw a few un-powered sets of Kansai-coloured 485-series' and couldn't resist!

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Before I know it, I've bought a new glass coffee table and have scoped out Perspex manufacturers in melbourne to create a super-sized 'chinese container' to slide in the open area under the glass.

Oh, and if you're wondering about the Kitaguni's warpage above...

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It was purchased from a flea-market in Laverton in such state. We can only thank the Australian sun for doing the best it could. The seller wanted AUD$20! WTAF. I paid $5 just because I've been on the train in the real world.

What can you fit in 1160mm x 460mm x 110mm?

I've gone bonkers on AnyRail, trying to jam as much rail as I can into this area. It's actually not a good idea... I suppose... I should pay more attention to scenery...


I then google'd a whole lot and got a bit of inspiration from Marklin:


That station under the bridge is a great idea!



I'm pretty happy with that last evolution. The top-left to bottom-right will be ground-level with a station in the middle under the bridge flying over. There's also a balloon loop to allow trains to be reversed. Anyway... more news on the coffee-table-layout as it happens.

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Repairing a faulty AppleDesign ADB Keyboard

After setting up my G3 266mhz, I found that I couldn't play Transport Tycoon. The game worked perfectly, apart from very soft music volume, but I couldn't work out how to actually move around the map. In DOS or Windows TT, this was a right-click-and-drag, which was obviously not a thing on a single-buttoned Mac mouse. I tried opt/cmd-click to no avail.

I then realised that the UP cursor key worked, but no other directions. Back in Finder... only UP also worked. Trying a little harder, I then found that the outer-ring of keys on my AppleDesign ADB Keyboard failed to respond at all!


I mean... you only have to look at it externally to see that it's had a hard life! Stickers... yellowed-plastic.. time for an autopsy.

Opening it up...

There's 6-or-so screws underneath, and a few clips along the bottom which'll need to be prized open. There's then 6000 screws holding the black metal plate to the back of the internal keyboard frame. Enjoy.

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The first obvious-ness was blistering contacts. This damage happened to be exactly on the cursor keys which didn't work... but a continuity test showed that this wasn't actually a problem.

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The next obvious-ness was a serious amount of water damage on both sides of the membrane.

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The real damage was black/broken traces. These are painted onto the plastic, so there's no soldering here, unlike when I fixed the eMate 300.

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Yeah, you'll just have to pretend the silver parts above are black. They were black. Unfortunately I didn't take a photo prior to fixing the bloody things! Actually, you can just see an example of the-blackening on the traces over on the far-right.

Fixing it

As you can see, I failed to take a 'before' photo, but whatevs. I first tried to use my Circuit Pen, but it turns out it had dried up all by itself. I had done everything right, the lid had been securely on during storage, but the pen was somehow rendered useless. Just for fun, I cracked it open and tried to use the contents, but they were taking WAY too long to dry on the plastic.

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Instead, I went back to Jaycar and bought a vile of silver conductive varnish. On the rack in the shop, this product looks like clear resin.

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The silver-ness of it actually settles to the bottom of the vile and I had a hard time finding it.

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A quick shake fixes that tho! Once shook, I used a toothpick to bridge all busted traces...

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Unlike the circuit pen, you can lather this shit on. It takes no time to dry and the resistance dropped to ~0ohms very quickly!

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In no time, many games were played.

Filed under: Apple No Comments