Subscribe via RSS

Cheap and easy Streetlights

I'd previously bulk purchased a large amount of LEDs from LED-Switch with the intent to light up my entire model railway. I'd already bought a few of the MAX7219 ICs, which control up to 64 LEDs each, and knew how to control these via the Arduino. My article on the IC and using it was here.

Anyway, streetlights were high on the agenda, as they exist in every town in Japan and, based on a very simple idea, weren't going to be too hard to make. Following are the steps involved with creating the street lights that have been visible in my prior articles.

Ingredients

  • 0.25mm Copper winding wire (or as thin as possible.)
  • 1.6mm LEDs White/Yellow (as available here)
  • Metal tubing for the main pole. (I used '3/64 x .006' brass tubing)
  • Soldering iron
  • Paint

Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway

Construction

Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway
Firstly, cut the pole to your desired length. I have to admit here that I never once measured any of the poles and just prototyped one against a reference (in this case it was a standard Greenmax building) and then made them all the same size. Make sure you take in to account where you will bend the pole and how much extra length will be required. Use a file to smoothen out the ends so that you don't damage the winding wire when fed through.

Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway
Once you have the poles made, simply cut the leads of the LED right down and solder one end to the pole itself. Finally, if you haven't already, feed the wire through the pole and tin one end (melt it with a little bit of solder to strip away the insulation.) Once done, trim away any excess tinned lead and then solder it to the other lead of the LED.

Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway

Note that the final version there was the best I'd made. I'd trimmed the LEDs right down after folding one leg over the top and used a very small amount of solder.

Finished Product

Better night shots of the taller version in action
Model Railway Model Railway

The only thing these really require now is some form of cover/compartment/housing for the bulb to live in. Currently, with a big enough blob of paint, I can get the ends to look round-ish enough to look acceptable and I'm happy with this. But any comments/suggestions for an off-the-shelf product that might have the right shape to cover the ends are welcome!

I'd also bought red, yellow and green LEDs and found that they had fit into the Greenmax Signals. I haven't gotten around to finishing them, but I will post another article once done.

Meanwhile, in my previous post, I also added both a red and blue LED to a Bachmann N-Scale Signal. I actually cut it off its usual pole/base and mounted them as shunting signals. See the pictures. I'll post a more detailed explanation along with the other signals once finished.

8Aug/102

Latest on the Model Railway

So, something that was just meant to turn into a test layout has now become one of my greatest creations... It's not much as yet, but the scenery and electronics involved is a lot more complex than I thought I would ever create and I'm really glad as to how it's coming along.

Here's a gallery of the initial track plan I intended on using and then 3 evolutions of it. The final layout is not actually listed there. You can see that it started as a single level basic loop, with options for expansion. As I realised the time required for building just this module, I decided to do away with the extension options (although things can always change) and then added a second level. This was just to be a ridge down the middle of the board, but it now has transformed into 1/4 of the overall surface area. A town has now grown on top and a nice siding for single-car vehicles.

Underneath the board is a birds-nest of wiring for all the tricks I've tried with the Arduino (see all the previous posts...) and I'll show you this in a later post.

For now, just check out the photos and I'll get back with more information as I create it. I'm currently working on street lights for the top town and also automation of the points. I've been through around 5 iterations for the control circuit for the points and damaged quite a few TomyTec FineTrack Points in the process. Not fun.

Here's a link to the whole album.

Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway
Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway
Model Railway Model Railway

Update: The streetlights are painted and in... I still need to work on the light end, they need some sort of cover/compartment.
Model Railway Model Railway Model Railway

Meanwhile, I also need to learn nighttime photography :)
More to come as I light up all of the houses; although one is already lit!

24Apr/109

Kato Amtrak 13002 (Seibu E851?)

So, I was browsing eBay and saw advertised a Kato Amtrak 4+4+4 Electric Locomotive... For all I'd known Amtrak America had never had any such an engine and therefore clicked the item to investigate... In front of me appeared (what looked like) an EF81 in Amtrak livery!

Kato Amtrak 13002 Kato Amtrak 13002 Kato Amtrak 13002
Kato Amtrak 13002 Kato Amtrak 13002 Kato Amtrak 13002

It seems that, back in the day, Kato didn't want to put money in to actually designing the models for America and therefore just repainted a (very slightly) remodeled EF81. Of course, it could be an exact copy of another Japanese electric locomotive, but I haven't had the time yet to do further research.

Update:
Toni Babelony of the JNS Forum posted a message in the thread I created on this locomotive that indicated that this is much closer to a Seibu E851. Thanks for pointing this out! Here is the Kato page on the Seibu E851. You'll notice that the Seibu has port holes, and other differences, but is obviously what Kato used as a base for this Amtrak locomotive.

Kato Seibu E851 Seibu E851 in Japan Kato Seibu E851
The real E851 in Japan

Meanwhile, here are some photos I've taken of EF81s in Japan:

Nihonkai heads to Osaka Nihonkai heads to Shinosaka Ex-Nihonkai EF81
DE10 and EF81 EF81 Nihonkai at Osaka
Twilight Express EF81 104 joins (passing Thunderbird) EF81 28 running light in Umeda EF81 28 running light in Umeda_001
Nihonkai paused Hokutosei at Fukushima NihonKai pauses at ShinOsaka
The Twilight Express at Shin Osaka The Twilight Express pulls into ShinOsaka

And, of course, if this locomotive really does exist, then please comment and tell me!

10Dec/095

Japanese Level Crossing Lights

After seeing how small surface-mount LEDs have gotten, and how cheap, I decided I'd grab a few from our local Jaycar Electronics Store and build a Japanese level crossing signal/light.


Ingredients

  • Red SMD LEDs
  • Metal tubing, hollow, for the main pole. I used brass from the local hobby store.
  • Copper 'winding' wire. Used since it's already insulated.
  • Soldering equipment.
  • Thin cardboard


The process

Firstly cut a length of the metal pole and then grind a hole in it behind the area where you intend on soldering the LEDs.

You can see I've run the copper wire through to make sure there are no obstructions. Be careful when doing this as you may well remove the insulation where the wire will rub on the metal pole.

Next rotate the pole around and then solder the LEDs into place. Make sure that one LED is reverse polarity!

Also solder a wire to the base of the main pole.

Run the thing copper wire from the tabs on the LEDs into the hole and then out the bottom of the main pole. Do this after all soldering to avoid melting the insulation.

Cut some thin strips of cardboard and glue them as the cross above the lights.

Apply some paint, I was a little sloppy.

Add your favourite flasher circuit. Make sure that it swaps polarity to only have to use two wires.

And that's about it... Signals next.

28Oct/094

Bamboo SL Sound Generator

Early this month, I was in Sydney for a weekend and it co-incided with the AMRA Annual Model Railway Exhibition. I was disappointed to not see the usual Japanese Layout by a well known Australian modeller in the Japanese N Scale realm... but found enough goodies in the 2nd-hand junk boxes to satisfy my need for Japanese stock.

An EF81 (missing one panto and other bits) was still for sale from another seller for $80 and I passed on it again as, although I'm sure it'll run fantastically, I don't want to have to spend the extra money (and time search Poppondetta) for all the missing components.

And then... the find of the day... A, and I quote ”BB サウンドシステム SLドラフトN” or translated to: "BB Sound System SL Draft N". [Note: SL stands for Steam Locomotive in Japanese, they've coined the acronym.] When I saw it, I could only guess that it made SL sounds... and should be towed behind an SL. I asked the price, was told $10 and I didn't even ask if it worked, as I just wanted to get it and test it instantly.


On the train back to the city (2 hour ride) I read the instructions... hah... read them like a picture book! I could read the Katakana.. and that hinted something at a 'Power pack' and 'SCR timing pulse'. I thought I'd just bought a lemon that required some magic to get the chuffing happening... boy was I wrong!

If anyone wants to look at this image and give me a proper translation of it then go ahead... I'll post it here. Otherwise, when I get the time, I'll attempt to type it in to Google translator and see what it spits out. I really should've studied Kanji further after Uni :)


Inspecting the Kato WAMU freight car (damn heavy!) I saw that there was a reed switch and a magnet glued to the axel. Primitive technology from Japan... but considering the age of the paper the instructions are on, I'm guessing this whole thing is over 10years old; but i'm yet to actually research it. Anyway, when rotating the axel you could hear the reed-switch clicking... meaning that it would be the 'pulse' required.

Opening it up, very gently, I found a reasonably dated PCB with quite large components.. but everything fitting nicely. There is a standard (what looked like a microphone) speaker mounted downwards and they've also added weights on the inside of the shell.

Finally, tonight, I put some voltage to the unit. I had to turn my Kato Powerpack up to notch '2' to get it hissing... and it sounds good!... I then pushed it along the tracks and the chuffing started... I realised that I could quickly get it to chuff way too fast and sound like a machine gun. After attaching my MicroAce steamer, I realised the main issue; the voltage required to start the sound was so high that the steamer was already flying. At this speed, although it sounded ok, it was still too fast to be enjoyed. When there was no loco on the tracks and the voltage was high, the sounds were great... you could even lock the reed switch open (at the sweet spot) and the chuff would continue forever... as in when an SL releases pressure at the end of a trip.

I then had a closer look at the circuit board to see if I could drop the required voltage to get the sound moving and something dawned on me... The sound worked in both directions... meaning that the circuitry had to work either way the DC voltage was supplied... this meant it had to have a bridge-rectifier in it already... DCC AC Voltage here I come!!!!

Of course, I ran out of time to test it on DCC and I also have no SLs DCC'd up. My MicroAce steamer seems to have a large enough tender... but I love that thing and don't want to hurt it. It also manages to suck power through it's driving wheels and so it'll be a task to convert it.

Videos!

This is the unit running on DCC. I don't have any steamers converted to DCC yet, so I put it in the middle of my 'Aizu Renewal' set. Apart from grotty wheels and tracks, the sound is great.